| See the damper?September 7 2008 at 9:14 AM | Bill (Login billinstuart) |
Response to Timing indicator |
| I'm not real familiar with the "Q" setups that drive from the front of the crank..is this what you have? Can you see the damper? If not, can you see the flywheel and count the teeth?
Make sure you have a real TDC..The procedure is find #1 cylinder, stick something in the plug hole that stops the piston about 1/2" down. Turn the engine one way until it stops, make a mark. Turn it the other way until it hits, make a mark. HALFWAY between these marks is an accurate TDC. Do NOT try to find tdc by maximum height of the piston..this is inaccurate because of all the slop at TDC..rod crossing tdc gives no vertical movement relative to the crankshaft rotation.
Retarded timing gives the engine that "lazy" feel. You want the timing to start advancing at 1000 rpms, and all in by 2800-3000. I'd go for 32 degreees total with non-vortec Chevy heads and 89 octane. I run 36 degrees in my Small block Ford.
Gotta 4 bbl? Secondaries open with air flow. Retarded timing won't let the engine run up enough to have sufficient airflow to open the secondaries or meter fuel properly.
There's always the old "power timing" method. run the engine 3/4 throttle or so. Advance the timing (turn the distributor) until the rpms don't increase any more, then back off a degree or two. That's actually the most accurate way,
|
| | Responses |
|
|