My 62 Lincoln Continental

[NicSanford]

Thank you Shelby. Turns out I was able to find a rebuild kit at Lincoln Land, and cancelled my order at Carbs Unlimited. Only $55 too!

While I wait on my rebuild kit, I'm trying to bleed my brakes and discovered some type of leak, possiblyl a vacuum leak. I'll post some video to let you hear and see what I do, and hopefully I can find a fix. I'm assuming I'll have to rebuild my brake booster and master cylinder, but hopefully not.

Be back soon with video!

Thanks...

[NicSanford]

As promised, here is some video of the air sound I hear while trying to bleed my brakes. I've since removed the master cylinder, and have taken a few pics of my progress. it's pretty dirty, so I'll give it a good cleaning. I'll leave the brake booster in for now while I diagnose the master cylinder.

Any thoughts?

Master Cylinder...

Brake Line Valves...

The Workspace...

[NicSanford]

Maybe you should give the master cylinder and the power brake booster a close look. I had a problem w. those after parking the car for a couple of years. The master cylinder started to leak into the brake booster where the acid started to destroy the diaphragm.

It turns out you were right on the master clyinder and brake booster. I tried bleeding the brakes but I'm hearing a vacuum leak somewhere. Do you think this might be in the brake booster? Also, where is the diaphragm located in the booster? Thanks in advance...

[keithol]

The sound you are hearing is normal, and a good sign. The system uses vacuum from the engine to assist you to apply the brake. When you pump your brake pedal the large diaphragm acts like a pump and pumps air into the vacuum lines.Bleeding brakes can be frustrating and tricky. First of all take out all the bleed valves and clean them , usually they are full of dirt and will not let fluid pass. I usually use a drill bit, turning manually. There are two holes to clean at right angles to each other and usually take different size bits. You may need to wire brush the portion of the bleeder inboard of the threads to even find the side hole. Brake fluid attracts moisture and the older systems were vented instead of sealed by a diaphragm at the filler cap, so had problems with corrosion internally. So don't be too surprised if you have some stuck cylinders. If you do need parts don't be afraid to ask at your local parts store, just because its old doesn't mean they can't get it. Sometimes they can get the parts faster and much cheaper !

[NicSanford]

Thanks again, this is all great information. So far I've only tried to bleed the right rear, and I did have to clean the valve. In regards to the master cylinder and the brake booster, would the cylinders be in the booster? Also, which parts should I have to replace? I'm about to go take the booster off now...

Brake Booster Diagram...

[keithol]

There are no cylinders in the brake booster ,I would not mess with the booster until you get the hydraulic system bled out and try it out. I see from the reference picture it is a piston type booster, but all it does is help you push the pedal with the engine running. It has nothing to do with the hydraulics of the brakes.The master cylinder could very well have a problem,however. Their are several ways to bleed brakes ,but the old messy standby is to have someone pump the brake pedal several times ,then hold it down while you loosen the bleed valve at the wheel cylinder, preferably starting at the furthest one, then close the valve before the pedal is released. At first all you will get is air,so you may have to repeat this step several times at each wheel before you get clear fluid with no air bubbles coming out. Make sure the pedal is not released while the valve is open or air will be drawn in, and make sure the reservoir never goes empty ! If you get no fluid by this method loosen the brake line at the master cylinder and see if you can get fluid to pump out there, if not the master cylinder is at fault and should be replaced . If you get fluid ,try the wheel cylinder again,you may just have awakened the system, or you may have plugged brake lines or hoses. Best of luck !

[NicSanford]

Sweet! So after thinking on it some, I have a much better understanding of the brake system from your description. I just ordered a master cylinder rebuild kit and it will be here on Monday. I just took the whole unit apart, and the rubber gaskets and pieces in the cylinder seem to be in okay shape, although a the rubber gasket on the outside was pretty worn. Not sure if that would draw air or not.

Anyhow, does anybody know what the large rubber piece is on the upper left of this picture? I don't have that on my cylinder, and don't quite know where it would go. Thanks again!

Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit...

raymk404_1.jpg (4.19 KiB) Viewed 38787 times

[NicSanford]

Okay I think I figured it out. It's the piece that goes on the booster from the inside by the brake pedal. would this piece affect the brake fluid pressure of the master cylinder?

[NicSanford]

I spent some time inspecting the brake lines today, and have a better understanding of the system and vacuum lines. Can anybody tell me what part 2063 is in this diagram? I know it's part of the main vacuum system, but not sure what the part is called. I found that it's disconnected from the brake booster, thus the reason for the pump noise when I pump the breaks, as shown in the videos above.

Brake Line Diagram...

[keithol]

Part #2063 is a vacuum reservoir ,meant to stabilize vacuum within the system. The other part you asked about is a rubber boot that is used with manual brakes but not with a booster. Most kits for rebuilding anything come with extra parts because they are packaged to fit several different vehicles or options. That cuts down on the number of part numbers that a parts supplier has to stock. Also when you do rebuild the master cylinder be sure to borrow or buy a brake cylinder hone and hone the cylinder to get rid of corrosion and pitting, otherwise your efforts will be in vain. There are two drilled holes between the reservoir of the master cylinder and cylinder portion , one tiny and one larger,make sure they are open. Also make sure you do not use any petroleum for cleaning , assembly ,or honing. Even a residue of oil will destroy the rubber parts! Brake cleaner spray works well on the metal parts or alcohol .Use only brake fluid as a lube when honing . Most pros quit rebuilding masters years ago because the pitting is most of the time impossible to hone out. If that's the case the cylinder will leak over time. Good luck again !