new here, and could use some help

[hawkdouble]

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Originally postet by "Preheim "

February 6 2005 at 5:04 PM
(Login preheim)
from IP address 64.33.243.149

Hi,
I first off want to say that I think this board is awsome! Great to see an active place for enthusiests of these engines. Keep up the great work.
I have a 67 Lincoln continental 462 4v all original. Here is the problem I have. The car has been parked for about 2 years, and somehow within that time it ended up getting water in the cylenders. Sitting with the water in the cylenders. What should I do? I know the engine ran well when it was parked, but after pulling the spark plugs out, and seeing the water in there I'm sure it isn't gonna run now:( IS there anything I can do to save it, or even possibly get it running again without haveing to rebuild? Don't know too much about this as I have never had this problem before. Please let me know what you can.
Thanks

[KULTULZ]

First off, Is this coolant or water (rain) that got into the engine and how did it get into the engine?

[hawkdouble]

I beleive it is rain that got in the engine threw the intake manifold. I had the carb off of the car while I was rekitting it. I stuffed a rag in the ports to block off the intake. Not sure how the water got into it unless it was rain. I don't beleive any of the water to be coolant. Not sure though.

[kultdouble]

How long was it open to the elements?
No score for this post February 7 2005, 9:47 AM

If it was just a few days, it shouldn't be a problem. A few years, and the rings may be rusted, and the engine frozen.

If the rain was heavy and it seems like there was a LOT of water, see if an auto parts store will rent an endoscope to you. Yeah, its the same one proctologists use... a probe with little light on the end that lets you look inside.

A lot of water, and your best move would be to yank the intake and heads (PITA, for sure) and really get every drop. An engine that trys to turn under its own power while filled with water will hydraulic lock and destroy the engine. Robust as an MEL is, it won't put up with that.

But, if it was just a short time, get all the plugs out. Disconnect the coil so you don't get 'zapped'

See if you can find one of those commercially available detail kits for a shop vac. Some come with attachments that neck down the 2 1/2 inlet for computers and collectibles. That could be jury rigged to accept a small vacuum hose. Carefully vacuum the intake manifold to the best of your ability. You won't get it all, but you can keep any more from getting in.

Once you have it as dry as you can get it (heat helps, too) get as much water as you can from the cylinders. When you have done this, you can get some Fogging Oil and give a generous spritz to each of the cylinders and down the intake manifold. A squirt can to shoot a couple of wads of engine oil into the cylinders to keep them from scoring would be good, too.

Drain your crankcase oil, remove the filter, and add a new one and top the oil back up.

Now, you will have the cylinders protected as well as you can, and removed all the water you can.

With the trans in park, and wheels blocked, spin the engine a few times on the starter (no plugs, of course) No more than 10 seconds per, wait a bit between spins, keep the charger on it, too. After you do this a few times, you will have sucked and blown out as much water as humanly possible from the engine without the benefit of a full teardown. For safety, you can do a few more spins with the engine inhaling the fogging oil.

Screw in eight fresh Autolites, clean your dizzy cap, check your firing order, put on a fresh fuel filter and button it back up. When it fires, it will steam and smoke like a sonofagun for a few minutes until you evaporate all the water and burn all the fogging oil out of the cylinders. Let the engine come to temp and hold it for about 15-20 minutes, the minimum time it will take to cause any condensation inside the engine to evaporate off.

Shut 'er down, wait a minute, and then drain the oil -- again -- and refill with your usual brand.

You should be good to go. I did soomething similar for a 351W back in the day, and that ol girl ran just fine; your results, as they say, may vary.

Good luck!

[hawkdouble]

thanks alot for the info. I'll see if I can't give it a try. I don't know though. I would guess that the wter has been sitting in it for about a year. May have to overhaul it. Anyone know how hard it is to rebuild these MEL engines? Do they make rebuild kits for the 462? Also if I am gonna go threw all the work of yanking the motor, and rebuilding it it would be nice to upgrade it from stock. Is there any performance build ups for these motors? Other than the induction, and heads? Please let me know what you can.
Thanks again for the info.

[KULTULZ]

Engine Damage Diagnostics
I would do as has been suggested. Pull the plugs, use compressed air to blow out the cylinders. Spray the cylinders down with WD-40 and allow to sit for a few days. Change oil and filter. Go back and and attempt to turn the engine by hand with a wrench on the balancer bolt. If she breaks free, turn it a few revolutions and again check for water in the cylinders.

Spin the engine with the plugs out (to expell any remaining water and hopefully prime the lubricating system)(an oil pump primer can be bought fairly cheaply). Install plugs and attempt to start. Once she starts, monitor engine operation.

Once warm, you can then perform compression and oil pressure tests. If the engine passes, I would just run it and check for excessive oil consumption. If anything fails (other than oil pressure-check the pump and screen), I would then consider going into the engine.

[hawkdouble]

sounds cool. I'll give her a try. I'll keep you all updated. probably won't have an update for a week or so, but I'll let you know what happens.
Thanks alot,
Preheim

[alternate]

pb blaster works alot better than wd40