Last three number sequences are Number/Code, type, and repair kit.

There have been a lot of questions about carbs, which models were used on various boats, and this info should help.

Starting back in the later years of the Hercules flatheads, and moving forward into the 283 and subsequent variations of the Small Block Chevy, Lincoln motors, and the 427 Ford.



Champion 1955 2 20 6MMGS, 6MSGS Carter 2273 N 1571

Chris Craft 8 A-120-A 325 HP (set Holley DD-5X

Chris Craft 8 A-120 250 HP Holley DD-5X

Chris Smith 1929 8 Schebler 405 S 2.5 1693

Chris-Craft 1934 1936 B Zenith 6920 524.5M2

Chris-Craft 1935 1948 C, C16, Utility Zenith 7141 593.5M2

Chris-Craft 1935 1937 H,HO,HR,HRO,K,KO,KR Zenith 7484 655.5M2 1789

Chris-Craft 1935 Chrysler PC Engine Zenith 6983 524.5M3

Chris-Craft 1936 A, LA, LAO, LC Zenith 8048 556M2 1052

Chris-Craft 1936 1951 L, LO, LR, LRO, MR, Zenith 8044 557M2 1047

Chris-Craft 1937 KC Zenith 8355 556M2 1052

Chris-Craft 1937 1945 KB, KBL Zenith 8351 20B12 2202

Chris-Craft 1939 1955 W, WR, WS Zenith 9183 558M2 1047

Chris-Craft 1939 1955 K, KR, KS Zenith 8983 63M2E12 1028

Chris-Craft 1941 1951 MB, MBL Zenith 7996 558M2 1047

Chris-Craft 1941 1955 A, B, BR Zenith 8963 63M2E10 703

Chris-Craft 1941 1955 MB, MBL Zenith 9776 1047

Chris-Craft 1946 1951 KB Zenith 1484 S 28B12 1019

Chris-Craft 1947 1948 M Zenith 10505 263M2E14 1039

Chris-Craft 1948 1955 KL Zenith 10762 263M2E12 1043

Chris-Craft 1950 1951 KLC Zenith 11168 557M2 1047

Chris-Craft 1954 1955 WB Zenith 11715 263M 1039

Chris-Craft 1955 1956 KLC Zenith 11849 263M2 1039

Chris-Craft 1955 1958 M Zenith 11839 263M2 1039

Chris-Craft 1955 ML, MBL Zenith 11810 263M2 1039

Chris-Craft 1956 1958 KFL Zenith 12055 263M2 1043

Chris-Craft 1956 1958 WB200 Zenith 12031 263M2 1039

Chris-Craft 1956 MLC Zenith 12009 263M2E14 1039

Chris-Craft 1956 1962 K Zenith 12091 63M2 1028

Chris-Craft 1956 1958 KL Zenith 12094 263M2 1043

Chris-Craft 1957 1963 B Zenith 12206 63M2 703

Chris-Craft 1958 8 283 Carter 2669 WCFB 0

Chris-Craft 1960 8 430 Carter 3041 AFB 566

Chris-Craft 1961 8 430 (Lincoln engine) Carter 3204 AFB 0

Chris-Craft 1962 8 283 (Chevrolet engine) Carter 3205 WCFB 547

Chris-Craft 1962 8 283 Rochester 7013071 4GC 1853

Chris-Craft 1962 8 283 Rochester 7015090 4GC 1853

Chris-Craft 1962 8 283 Rochester 7019082 2GC 1854

Chris-Craft 1963 8 430 430 Carter 3314 AFB 566

Chris-Craft 1964 8 283 Carter 3660 06824000 AFB 592

Chris-Craft 1964 8 327 Carter 3660 06824000 AFB 0

Chris-Craft 1965 6 225 Rochester 7025189 2GC 2746

Chris-Craft 1967 8 307 Rochester 7028207 2GC 2747

Chris-Craft 1967 8 427 Carter 4157 AFB 569

Chris-Craft 1968 8 307 307-Q Carter 4695 AVS 1453

Chris-Craft 1968 8 327 327-Q Carter 4695 AVS 0

Chris-Craft 1968 8 327 327-Q Carter 6117 48688 AVS 1340

Chris-Craft 1971 4 153 Rochester 7041187 2GC 2748

Chris-Craft 1972 4 181 Rochester 7042181 2GC 2749

Chris-Craft 1972 8 307 Carter 6310 AFB 593

Chris-Craft 1972 8 307 Carter 6478 06-82-30 BBD 2518

Chrysler 6 Imperial L 125 HP Holley E-6964-M DD-5BR


Data obtained from
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/MkitABC.htm

There have been many conversions now, all seem to be good.

Here are some photos and links

From this



to this.........in about 15 minutes!


http://www.network54.com/Forum/424840/message/1197906615/
Edelbrock swap

http://www.network54.com/Forum/424840/message/1149658630/
Report on the water, how it runs!

http://www.network54.com/Forum/424840/message/1125684478/
Carter AFB photos, work sheets, and tune up info, including some RARE specs on the original Carter offered on the 427 Marine Motors.

This is a great forum, by the way, I'm knocked out with all the information you guys have here. I have been reading up on various issues and the Edelbrock carb conversion really caught my eye. I see from the postings that this is a fairly straight forward operation, but I don't understand how the electric choke works. Has anyone done this who can tell me in laymans terms how an electric choke works and how it should be wired.

Thanks,

Walt

Here's how they work. There is a bimetallic strip (2 dissimilar metals) coiled inside an electrically heated housing. the coiled strip is connected to the choke plate in the primary side of the carb. Energizing (electricity) the heating coil heats the bimetallic strip. The two metals have a different rate of expansion, so the strip uncoils, opening the choke.

There is a single (hot) power wire to the choke, switched by the ignition switch. The choke heater grounds at the carburetor. Continuous power to the coil keeps it open. some choke power wires go thru an oil pressure switch, that only energizes the choke when there is oil pressure..engine running. Keeps the choke from opening too early.

The electric choke part is probably the easiest part too. You'll find two terminals on the electric choke. The carb comes with all the wire you'll need. Hook the black wire with the connector that fits the black terminal, and run it to a convenient ground (finding one on the carb is easy, but anywhere on the block will do).

The other wire only fits the + terminal, and you need to run it to a positive connection on the motor that is only energized when the ignition key is on. You don't need to run a wire all the way to the switch. Many people just go to the + side of the coil, bingo, you're done.

AS Bill said, the choke will eventually heat up and open for regular running. There is a nice adjustment feature you twist it back and forth and check how the choke damper works. Once you get it hooked up, turn on the ign and sit and wait. You will feel the electric choke assembly eventually get hot, and as it gets hot it will slowly pull the damper into the open position. When it's good and hot that damper should be in the full open position, so you set it so it's just in the full open position. Now wait a spell for it to get cold again, go back and check to see what that damper looks like. If you have it set properly, it will now be in the 100% closed position (fully choked). If it is not fully shut, you'll know you didn't quite get it right, and then you ever so gently twist the adjustment a tad to make it fully closed. Tighten things up, you're ready to boogie. They work great, a couple of cranks and varooooooom!

You can't do it with a screwdriver, it takes a special torx driver, however I've done it with a needle nose visegrip, but don't tell anyone!

Roy

Thank you guys so much, for the timely response and for putting it into terms I can understand. This is great.

Now I can go forward with this project, having seen the photos and understanding what I'm getting myself into.

Walt

Hi guys,

I'm pleased to announce I just ordered a 1409 Edelbrock marine carb for $252.

Thanks for the assurances here, othewise I would not have known about this conversion, or anything about how one would hook up and work.

I also found out about the NexTag site here on the forum, and that already saved me some bucks!

Sweet !

Walt

http://www.nextag.com/edelbrock-1409/search-html

Hey Walt, good score on the carb, it has all the new features of the updated Weber built Edelbrock, and with a factory warranty too. It should put a smile on your face. Hope it works out for you,

Paul

you had me worried there for a minute.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000182DII?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextag-auto-20&linkCode=asn

Walt

Careful, that 1405 is not a marine carb. The 1409 is the marine unit. Not sure of the difference other than the irridite coating. Paul?
Regards,
George

The good news is, I ordered the right marine carb and got a great price.

The bad news is, its a rebuilt unit. Well looking at the ad closer now I should have seen it but I was not really aware of or looking for rebuilt units. In any case, I'm sure it will work just fine, and I'm happy with the price. Here is where I ordered from

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSWM5G?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextag-auto-20&linkCode=asn

Walt

It's not rocket science. It will look and work like new.

Tom

The biggest problem with a generic rebuild is that you have no way of knowing what jets/metering rods/etc. is in it. I'm sure it will work, but ya may have to tinker a little to get it REALLY right.

I'd rebuild the present carb until the holes wear out, if it was working good.

Carb looks and works like new. Thanks for all your help. Big improvement. Electric choke is pretty slick.

Walt