block filler is ok to use. I have mine filled to the top of the water pump outlets(parallel) and it should be fine. Most of the cooling is done by the heads anyway.Just keep an eye on oil temps.
My take on this is the blocks need all the rigidity you can muster up .
The thinwall casting techniques of that era of Ford engines allowed considerable weight saving at the expense of structural integrity. Any attempt at strengthening the bores is a plus or more accuratley keeping the bores round and minimizing flexing during hi rpm will help enormously with ring seal. If the bores flexes,ring seal is lost and power will be lost.
Most aftermarket stroker kits are good. Eagle,Scat,SRP,Probe are just a few names used .If you stick with these you usually can't go wrong. You can buy kits ready to go depending on cubes or you can piece together your own mix of parts if you know what you are doing. Buying a ready made kit may be easier though.
I have at one time or another used both CHI and AFD heads. AFD's on a clients engine and CHI 185's on my own personal 383. Both will make the power you want and you can do it with any of the port configurations on offer from both manufacturers. Cylinder head selection will depend on engine size and rpm limit. AFD have two distinct cylinder heads to choose from,CHI have no less than obout 4 variants capable of the power you need. The only thing I would be wary of is exhaust port vs shock tower interference with a cleveland in an early mustang so that may preclude some head designs with raised ex ports.
My recipe would be somewhere around 383/393 cubes with a set of CHI 2v's,Airgap manifold,Solid cam around 650 lift with 250/260 duration,11.3 to 1 comp,750 hp Holley,MSD dizzy,Crane Hi 6 ,etc.
That combo should be good for 530 hp.
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