I have a 462 in my `67 continental that i`m gonna rebuild. i`m pretty new in this game, so I wonder if anyone have a good suggestion for what kind of carburator i should use. I have bored and bought new .030 pistons, does that have any influence on what kind of carb i need to use? I think the carb I have (that was on when i bought the car) don`t give enough fuel, and resulted in damages on the pistons and rings. Could this be a fact?

Hi Frederik,
the piston oversize has no correlation to what carbureter you should use. If you still have your orig, carb. this would be the best option. Have it rebuild at a good shop where they know Ford carbs. I'm quite a while out of the business, so I dion't really know if Pony Carburetors still exist. Out of my head I think they offer a wide range of carbs on exchange basis.
A fool proof and cheap solution would be an Edelbrock 750 cfm carb out of the box. I have made exceptional good experience with these easy to install and maintain carburetors. Bolt it on, set the left and rght screw 1 1/2 turns out from full in and drive it away. A more precise adjustment is a different story, but that would work fine and instantly.

There is indeed a situation where a carb might be indirectly responsible for ring damage. That's when human error comes into play. If the adjustement is too lean, pistons and rings might suffer. But usually these components should be strong enough to survive the toughest situations.

Thanks alot Theo! Edelbock is pretty easy to come by in Norway, but i`ll check out Pony Carburetors. Found their site: ponycarburetors.com. And it looks like they are operational still. Found some of their carbs on eBay.

I remember that their prizes were on the steep side, especially with Ford carbs like firecrackers etc.
Are you shooting for an all orig. restoration? Restomod?
If you don't bother w. matching numbers and original trim I'd suggest to just grab a good used E-Bock from e-bay or the next garage sales in your area. These carbs are commonly available and compared to orig. Ford stiuff dirt cheap.
I have a box with needles and jets that I bought from E-Bock. With all these pieces you can fiddle with combinations until you get mad.
Good luck w. the carb.

I myself used an Edelbrock Performer 750 CFM carb on my '67 462. It is a Carter AFB design like the original carb so fit and hook up is easy. I did need a Ford linkage adapter but that was easy to find through Edelbrock I believe. I used a 1" spacer to keep the carb cool, Pertronix II electric ignition and Pertronix Flame Thrower II 45,000 Volt coil. That was even easier to install! You pull out the points and it all goes under the cap. The car ran very well, idled great and I also have an electric fuel pump but that was because the push rod was stuck solid on the mechanical one. I had to take the 750 off and put it on my old 1984 GMC Sierra 4x4 with a 1972 Chevy small block 400 and it opened that truck up a bit! Sold the truck with it on it but I came across a parts car with the original carb in the truck so I am good to go once I clean it up. I think the original Carter is around 600 CFM. Wish I still had the Edelbrock and sell it to you cheap since I wouldn't need it. The only thing about the Edelbrock is the fuel inlet is on the passenger side unlike the original. If you wanted to make it look 'stock' you will have to just hope its hidden under the enormous air cleaner. A 1" spacer will allow the cleaner to fit under the hood.

Thanks for the feedback Buddy67!! Much needed info. Looks like im going for the e-brock carb. its not so important for me too keep the car original. I think thats a phenomenon for the older generations

Summit racing sells reasonably ptized auto parts. Buy their "phenolic carb spacer" in the height you desire. It's a bit more expensive than the plastic or what ever fantastic spacers but does keep your carb way cooler than it would get heated up under normal conditions w/o it.
The E-Bock carbs are available with the Ford kick down linkage as an option. No use to convert or buy parts afterwards.

Theo wrote:Summit racing sells reasonably ptized auto parts. Buy their "phenolic carb spacer" in the height you desire. It's a bit more expensive than the plastic or what ever fantastic spacers but does keep your carb way cooler than it would get heated up under normal conditions w/o it.
The E-Bock carbs are available with the Ford kick down linkage as an option. No use to convert or buy parts afterwards.

Theo thats exactly what I used! Thanks for mentioning it. I used a 1" phenolic carb spacer. Fredrik, if you have the stock spacer with that vacuum pipe and its not damaged...sell that to help pay for the set up! I know they are hard to come by and usually are broken. I've seen some people pay up to $50 for one in perfect shape. On another note, try Summit and also try Jegs. I bought mine through Jegs. Just another place to check out and compare prices but both places are typically the same in price and all. If I come across my regular printed photos of the engine (before digital cameras) I will scan it in and post it for you! If you have a hard time finding the Ford linkage I can give you name and model of mine. I just came across the instructions the other day. Take care

buddy67lincoln wrote:

Theo wrote:Summit racing sells reasonably ptized auto parts. Buy their "phenolic carb spacer" in the height you desire. It's a bit more expensive than the plastic or what ever fantastic spacers but does keep your carb way cooler than it would get heated up under normal conditions w/o it.
The E-Bock carbs are available with the Ford kick down linkage as an option. No use to convert or buy parts afterwards.

Theo thats exactly what I used! Thanks for mentioning it. I used a 1" phenolic carb spacer. Fredrik, if you have the stock spacer with that vacuum pipe and its not damaged...sell that to help pay for the set up! I know they are hard to come by and usually are broken. I've seen some people pay up to $50 for one in perfect shape. On another note, try Summit and also try Jegs. I bought mine through Jegs. Just another place to check out and compare prices but both places are typically the same in price and all. If I come across my regular printed photos of the engine (before digital cameras) I will scan it in and post it for you! If you have a hard time finding the Ford linkage I can give you name and model of mine. I just came across the instructions the other day. Take care

Buddy if you wouldnt mind find the name and model I would be greatful. that could save me some time since im still in a learning stage

Here's my 600 cfm E-Bock w man. choke. It's set up for neck snapping responsiveness.