I have a siezed drain plug which I stripped the allen on. I drilled it out to 1/4" and used my extractor to put as much force as I think the extractor can handle short of breaking. My next step will be heat. Question; how much heat can I safely apply to the area around this plug. Keep in mind that the cylinder is probably 3/8" away from this plug, (the width of water jacket). I will heat it in increments to try and break this loose, but if I have to get it glowing red will it hurt anything?
The change to cherry red changes the structure of the rust to something that will release. I cannot recall the details of the chemistry, only that this change in state for the rust is what makes it possible to seperate rusted nuts from the rusted bolts.
Before you use heat you may first want to try air hammer impact w/ a very dull chisel bit, w/ low air pressure. Impact the plug directly, and all around - - the dynamic shock may break it free so you can unscrew it w/ your easy-out.
I'm sure you have read here about the candle wax trick. It works, I have done it many times. Lay your block over on its side and apply some heat. Get it fairly hot, but not red, then melt some of the wax around the plug. It will flow in around the rusty threads. Then try it again with your extractor and I'll bet it comes out. May need to repeat or turn the heat up slightly...........Sure sorry our timing was off the other day. I am looking forward to seeing the block and your new stuff. Be sure and ask me about driving my sons "new" 03 Cobra this weekend,lol. RonW
from my gramps, he owned a truck/tractor/car dealership, a truck fleet, and a few farms, worked in his shop since I was 5. Don't heat around the plug, heat the plug straight on, right in the center- it'll expand in the threads, and crush the rust in the process. After that is a great time for PB or wax- should come right out
I've not tried it yet but the super markets now sell dry ice
December 16 2008, 7:10 AM
by weight. I wonder what shoving dry ice at -110F on a stuck bolt will do. Id figure the thermally caused size reduction and trama might loosen things up...
Devils advocate: heating can deviate ambient temp by hundreds to thousands of degrees a far greater spread
Re: OT...... Removal of siezed drain plug from block.....
December 16 2008, 9:59 AM
Over the years, I`ve had varied sucsess removing the block drain plugs. If it will require a huge amount of effort to get them out, I just leave em in. If you pop the core plugs out, everything will be drained anyhow, & I`d be pretty mad if I buggered up a block with too much heat, or mangled the plug so much that it broke off or leaked and couldn`t get it out anyways.
428 powered Fairmont drag car, Best ET:10.03@132.11MPH, best 60 ft: 1.29
59 Meteor 2 dr. sedan 332, Ford O Matic
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4speed
I am with you on that. If the block is bare knock out the core plugs
December 16 2008, 12:37 PM
Have the water pump off and put it in spot where it is "envionmentally friendly", like your queer neighbors flower bed, and douche it with a water hose, Blow it out with air, and its clean enough.
If its together, knock out the core plugs, pull the water pump and rinse it until all of the rusty crap comes out, then shop vac along the bottom, blow it out with air. I won't even attempt to get one of those plugs out, because you can get a sprayer and a shop vac attachment, or air hose in there much better with six ways to get at it.
Thanks for the responses...........Espicialy Bills
December 16 2008, 7:21 PM
I will try the moderate heat and wax. Although I don't think I have any queer neighbors I would consider pouring the antfreeze out so the neighbors unleashed, unfenced constantly barking dogs that aggravate the He** out of my fenced dogs could get a taste of it. Not really. As sure as I did not replace these 2 plugs they would leak, Hell, they will probably leak anyway. Besides I am thinking of installing drain peacocks in the place of them. I am appreciative of the responses, I will let everyone know the final results.