regarding my daily driver. LSV8--has occasionally (since new) required the turning of the key twice to start. This morning it would not fire---except for an occasional single cylinder. Long story short, I tried for about twenty minutes and then put the battery charger on and came in the house. I'd read on another forum that this was a not-uncommon problem, and the consensus experience is to leave the car alone for ten minutes or so and then it will start. I went out again after about a half hour and succeeded in starting it---BUT it seemed like it was flooded. Had to floor the pedal and crank, and then it seemed to 'clear itself'.

This makes me think about a possible leaky injector. Your thoughts and comments are very welcome!!! (This problem is exascerbated by the fact that I'm building a replacement engine that'll use a different sort of injector and therefore I'm trying to keep this daily driver running until spring with as little expenditure as possible.) THANKS!!
KS

Are you getting a check engine light?

A lot of things could be causing the problem; cam or crank position sensor possibly.
I've had the same thing happen on a foggy morning---turned out to be condensation in the distributor cap.

I'd check for diagnostic trouble codes first, then make sure you've got fuel to the rail.
Just my 2 cents.

when cranking all the instruments are going crazy---speedo and tach needles jerking back and forth. The alarm went off as well. Fuel pressure is checked by an Autometer gauge tapped into the cross-connecting hose between the two fuel rails. Shows a wildly deflecting needle---jumping between 20 and 40 pounds.



Starts just fine now.

KS
There is fuel to the rail. And with a COP system, there's no distributor. KS

will trigger when the supplied voltage dips below the threshold of the processor. Sounds to me like all you may have is a battery going south, what with the other dash antics. The car's processor may have done similar mayhem with the injectors. I'd disconnect the battery for a half hour or so to get everything reset; had a similar sitch with my CVPI.

I agree,it has to be a voltage problem.This time of year will kill a battery that has a problem faster than in the warmer time of year.Your battery possibly had a poor internal short or another issue from day one.I would just get a new one and get the highest ratted cca they have for you application.The factory only puts in the cheapest one they can get.The replacement ones at the dealer have about twice the warranty as the original ones.
Bobby

Check the grounds. Grounds are the root of all evil.

battery about a year ago and put in a red top Optima. I just checked, and the original, setting on the garage floor, is showing 12.75 volts. I'm going to put it in, and check and re-flash the computer. The battery comes from the factory in a trunk installation, and stays very clean and neat. No sign of corrosion.



Thanks for the info, and anyone with input, please feel free!!!



KenS

are often not near the battery. In a rear mount, they go to the frame. They then need to go to the engine. In days gone bt, there was a itty bitty little ground strap at the back of the manifold to the firewall. It was responsible for many gremlins. Some cars had ground straps connecting the hood to the body. Better not mess with those either.