I have seen a few different after market 427 Blocks around, can someone tell me which is the best after market Aluminium block for big HP Pond, Carroll Shelby, Genesis?
Also who has the best name in the Engine building game for this type of HP motor for purchase?
Chris from OZ

You really only have two choices on the aluminum blocks since Genesis is not making any right nnow and I would stay away from them anyway. Either the Pond or Shelby will handle a lot of HP. I would say that they will both handle at least 1500 and probably more. The Pond is only available in the 4.250 bore and it can go up to a 4.310 bore if needed. Shelby has a big bore option on their blocks for 500 extra. It starts at 4.375 bore size and you can go bigger from there. The Shelby block is about 800.00 dollars more than the Pond when you figure in the extra cost of the Shelby head studs.
You did not say how much HP you want to make or what you plan on doing with the engine. The power you want to make will be affected by the compression you want to run,the money you want to spend on an engine and how you plan on using it. We can help you with about anything you want to do with an FE engine. There are a few other guys in the country that can help you as well. Be careful who you deal with on an FE engine build because they are a little different. Thanks, Keith Craft

are out at this exact moment, but are also available within a reasonable timeframe. I acquired, machined, and shipped one out two weeks ago. The newest iteration has some improvements - including larger risers in the valley that give a better casting.

In aluminum the Genesis is the most original in extrernal appearance at the lowest cost when considering both block price and machining.

The Pond is a good choice with some added features - I really like the doweled main caps, the extended reach studs, and the fact that the cap registers to the block through it's full depth. It requires some added expense both in acquisition, fasteners, and machining as the cam tunnel, main tunnel, and lifter bores are shipped undersize - which also could be viewed as a benefit because it allows tailoring those dimensions to your exact needs.

I have very limited experience with the Shelby - but many of the fastest FE cars run them - including Jay Brown and Jack Miller. Obviously a very strong part. The most expensive of the three, they do not look at all original from the outside - if that matter to you. They have head studs that index deep into the block - should be an advantage. They have multiple cross bolts - again this should be better.

As Keith correctly noted, be certain to have outsourced machining and assembly handled by somebody familiar with FEs. They are not a difficult engine to build, but they do have some odd bits that require some advance knowledge and experience to address.

Barry Rabotnick
Survivalmotorsports.com

I never used a Genesis block, but I've used Pond and Shelby. In my limited experience the Shelby is a better block. I suggest you get the vendor you buy it from to align bore it, not use a local shop, RWJ

on a moderate 500-600HP motor. Of course I know the old adage that the faster you want to go the more money squared and "racers" spend large sums blueprinting EVERYTHING but can one presume other then a bore and honing to piston size with a deck plate the SHELBY block will be darn good dimensionally?.....
I recall years ago tales of clearencing for starter issues and etc. Jays mentioning the near total re-manufacturing required of his Doves SOHC heads was a real chiller.

my local guy is building one right now. It's been a real bear as he's going over it completely. He's had to adjust a few things to get clearances where he wants them. Ya, this is going to be a 700hp street motor, so it does demand a bit more finesse.

Can you just throw one together? I probably wouldn't.


LarryK

1964 Galaxie 2dr 390/6-71/4spd
1964 Country Sedan Wagon 428/5spd
1969 F100 428/4spd
1967 F100 352/now a 4 spd!
1959 B Model Mack

BB, I have four Shelby blocks, and one Pond aluminum block. All five of them have required an align hone of the main bearing bores to be right. Also, the ones that I have run lifters in (the wedge FE motors, not the SOHCs) have had to have the lifter bores sized. Then of course the cylinders have to be bored and honed.

It's a mistake to consider any of the aftermarket blocks ready to assemble, IMO. Figure on at least some touch up machine work to make them right.

Jay Brown
1968 Shelby GT 500 Convertible, 492" 667 HP FE
1969 R code Mach 1, 490" supercharged FE, 9.35 @ 151.20, 2007 Drag Week Runner Up, Power Adder Big Block
2005 Ford GT, 2006 Drag Week Winner, 12.0 Daily Driver
1969 Ford Galaxie XL, 460 (Ho Hum....)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500, 510" SOHC

First thing we do on all blocks is to pressure check them before we do any machine work. We have had all of them to leak at one time or the other. We then line hone the blocks to size before the block goes in the RMC CNC machinig center where we check the decks and bors to blue prints. If all check we will set the sleeves ion the block and make sure they are above the deck about .002 to .004. On the Pond blocks we do have line hone the cam tunnel and the Shelby has this done. We have to size the lifter bores on both blocks and make sure that they are not to big. From time to time we may have the install a bushing in one if it is to big. We then do the boring in the CNC machine if needed by the factory bore spacing and angles. Block is them honed with torwue plates to the size needed and for the rings to be used. Block then has the bottom of the bores deburred to remove any sharp edges on the sleeves at the bottom that might cut into the piston skirt. We deburr some other areas on the blocks and do some oil passage work as well. There are certain galleys that we may drill out bigger depending on the use of the block. We drill and pin the cam bearings on the Pond blocks so that they do not move on us. We also do complete lifter bore bushing on some of tha all out race blocks as well as roller cam bearings. We drill the blocks as needed for SOHC applications for returns. Every now and then you will find a galley plug that needs to be tapped deeper as well. You will also find a head bolt hole that is not tapped all the way to the bottom every now and then. You just have to check everything and that is what makes this shit so fun some times. Good luck, Keith Craft

that machine work in turn complicates further machine work to get things corrected. If the builder could get the raw assembly the blocks cost could be cheaper and the fix-it machine work would be less complex.
Just a shame paying twice

it makes the buyer responsible for making everything fit. Not once will you hear that a Shelby block was machined incorrectly or whatever. It's only roughed in and you finish it to your taste. Should be cheaper, but you know it don't work that way.

LarryK

1964 Galaxie 2dr 390/6-71/4spd
1964 Country Sedan Wagon 428/5spd
1969 F100 428/4spd
1967 F100 352/now a 4 spd!
1959 B Model Mack

When my Shelby aluminum block was "lost for 4 months" by FED EX, Shelby completed another block completely, and overnighted it to my door, and I had a supervisor from FED EX waiting for the package to arrive. Shelby finished the mains, cam bearings, lifter bores, and finish honed the bores, etc. at no cost to me for the "inconvenience" caused by the lost block. When I called to ask where the block was, after the first week, they did a search, and couldn't find the origional block. They made good on the replacement, and a couple of months later, there magically appeared on my front porch a crumpled mess of a box with a dinged up aluminum block that had been misplaced for over 4 months. Anyway, I boxed it up, and FED EX picked it up. Shelby made it right. Joe-JDC.

...sounds like they could lose the Arc of the Covenant, too.