HI Ross I know your running a TKO behind your Fe. I have a few questions did you have to cut the floor? and what else was involved besides the usual clutch, drive shaft yoke, driveshaft, speedometer, shift fork and to bearing? I was going to rebuild my big in/out close ratio to a wide ratio. By the time you by all the parts from David Kee, I could by a brand new top loader and have a a spare transmission. My thinking has changed maybe a tko with .82 overdrive would be cheaper and cover the overdrive as well. Wife says it might be a good 50th birthday present.

I did some minor cutting from my perspective, one decent notch of a hidden brace.

There is a floor cross brace that basically crosses the hump right behind the shifter hole. I had to notch that brace approx 6 inches wide so I could jack the tranny up to original location. Some dont, but I had to.

I used a Dark Horse crossmember, but it hung the tail too low and the fan would have hit the radiator on the bottom, so I raised 1 inch at the rear mount to have the original centerline.

I also slightly trimmed the shifter hole, but it was very minor. Also, directly under the radio, I had to dimple the floor to make room for the tranny vent, it was just one shot with a hammer, all cars may not need it

I used a shortened input shaft from Tremec, it bolted directly to my Toploader blow shield. I needed to change clutch disks, and I upgraded to a 12 inch dual friction at the same time

You use a 390 clutch fork, I had to change it because my car had a big in/out box before. Speedo cable bolts right up, Hurst shifter handle bolts right up.

Driveshaft yoke needs to be 31 spline (C-6 or big output 4 speed) but uses the same driveshaft length as the RUG-AE2 it replaced. Stock CJ 4 speed length, no cutting unless you use a spacer instead of the short input, but then your shifter wont line up also, so two strikes that way

Some cars may have to switch to a C-6 speedo cable if you dont have enough slack, its on the opposite side, but mine worked fine.

If you can get over notching the floor brace (which you cant see anyway) its almost a bolt in swap, certainly a breeze.

I think the .82 is a very good choice too, although I like my .64, they didnt have the .82 when I bought mine, and it is a little tall.

Give Brent from B2 a call, last I knew he had some of the best prices and a regular here.




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- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, TKO-600 5 speed, 3.70 9 inch
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 397 cid FE, headers, Street Dominator, 280H, 5 lug Dana 60, 4 speed

How hard do you drive your car? In 33 yrs that I have owned the car I never hurt the tranny.I wore out a few input bearings and syncros but never busted it to the point I couldnt drive it. I dont mind notching a bit there isnt anything original on the car. I paid 400 for it in high school Im surprised its still in one piece after what Ive put it through.

But I "accidentally" spin the tires at least a couple times each time I take it out LOL

I have it in there for 2+ years, will be three in April, hasnt missed a beat.




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- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, TKO-600 5 speed, 3.70 9 inch
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 397 cid FE, headers, Street Dominator, 280H, 5 lug Dana 60, 4 speed

I changed my Top loader out to a early version of the TKO, mine is only rated at 425 ft lbs of torque with a .68 od. I have not had slicks on mine yet so I don't know if it will stand the pressure of the 428 or not. However, like Ross, I make it hard on the street tires everytime I drive it (can't resist). What kind of driving do you do. If its mostly street you will love the OD. Remember that first gear in these things is a 3.27 so any more than a 3.50 rear will make first useless (I am changing my 4.11 out to 3.40 this week). Also speed shifting the TKO is kinda hard, they are notchy. If you mostly race I would stick with the toploader. If you do get a TKO be sure and get the short imput shaft for Ford applications. Good luck.


Craig Mitchell
68 Mustang GT 428CJ

(sorry the devil made me do it)has a 2.87 first gear. Mike

in a comprehendable nut shell. I saved that post.

I've been on the fence about the TKO just for the simple fact of deciding on the "proper driveline angle" or a compromise with numerous other inherent adjustments. The old snowball effect. I'm a big fan of two famous sayings..... "yur' chain's only as strong as it's weakest link" and "keep it simple".

One question. When you massaged the floor crossover brace, did you feel that there might be a structural issue? You're well aware of the torque levels the FE is capable of delivering. I ask only because of the memory of my '70 R-Code with my garagebuilt SCJ. After awhile I had trouble closing my doors. Twisted the s$%^t out of that car. And yes, I'll be using some custom fitted sub-frame connectors in my '68. Did you do any mods to the missing part of the floor crossover brace that you cut out? TIA................Bill

Its a full boxed brace and I didnt even have to notch half of it, more like "taking a bite out of it"

Plus I run subframe connectors too, but even if I didnt, I cant imagine taking the small cut out of it would change the dynamics of the whole floor


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- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, TKO-600 5 speed, 3.70 9 inch
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 397 cid FE, headers, Street Dominator, 280H

That makes the decision process much easier.

I just want to get it right the first time. Im still trying to undo 33 yrs of oppses.

If close to MD, I can always take you for a hell ride, or we have Charlie down south in VA Beach area.


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- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, TKO-600 5 speed, 3.70 9 inch
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 397 cid FE, headers, Street Dominator, 280H, 5 lug Dana 60, 4 speed

Im in Long Island have relatives in Va might look you up one day. Who is Brent from B2?

He runs a small business B2 Motorsports, selling some neat stuff, Tremec included.

A quick scan of the page will find him. He posts nearly every day.

I am sure he will chime in after he sees this post.


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- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, TKO-600 5 speed, 3.70 9 inch
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 397 cid FE, headers, Street Dominator, 280H, 5 lug Dana 60, 4 speed

I own a small business, B2 Motorsports, mainly dealing with drivetrain parts...flywheels, clutches, bellhousings, transmissions, etc.

If you have any questions, just shoot me an email and I'll be more than happy to answer them.

brent@b2motorsportsllc.com

Had mine cryo treated, shot peened and surface enhanced. Claimed to withstand 900 lb ft. Shifts fine at 7000, 800hp with 11x29 slicks. No problems.

800 HP? What does the car weigh and how quick does it go? Any photos?

428 powered Fairmont drag car, Best ET:10.03@132.11MPH, best 60 ft: 1.29
59 Meteor 2 dr. sedan 332, Ford O Matic
74 F350 ramp truck 390 4speed