I searched and found quite a few posts on this subject but the most recent was about 2003. Some have used ARP's instructions at 75 ft lbs and some have used Edelbrocks instructions with 110 long 100 short. Some have reported calling tech line at ARP and one said 75 and another said 90 so what is the final answer? What are you guys using and anybody had any issues with what they used, like 75 which seems low or 110/100 which seems high (all with ARP lube) ?
Per the '65 427 Shop Manual. I use motor oil on the threads.
1912 Model T Ford touring Salmon (ugh!)
1913 Model T Ford Touring original Black paint
1915 Model T Ford Roadster Black
1915 Model T Ford touring Black of course!
1967 Cougar GT 390 Cardinal Red / Black
1968 Cougar GTE 427 Augusta Green / Saddle
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/15029/50071-2
but they say with ARP lube so it probably puts the bolt under more tension than oil. ARP's general quide says 88 for their 170k PSI bolts 1/2-13. And they say 75 due to aluminums greater expansion with the bolt instructions.
I didn't do it because of Edelbrock's instructions. I did it because it works.
1912 Model T Ford touring Salmon (ugh!)
1913 Model T Ford Touring original Black paint
1915 Model T Ford Roadster Black
1915 Model T Ford touring Black of course!
1967 Cougar GT 390 Cardinal Red / Black
1968 Cougar GTE 427 Augusta Green / Saddle
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/15029/50071-2
I respect that, I had a heck of a time breaking the bolts loose using Edelbrocks instuctions, oil would be a match for that torque from what I have read.
I ran into this issue back in 2002 and also got two different answers from ARP and Edelbrock s tech line. They were aware of the discrepancy but stood by their own specs. The ARP guy said that if I used ARP's bolt lubricants and Edelbrocks torque spec I would never be able to get the heads off.
I used ARP's bolt lube (or sealer for bolts entering water jackets) and torqued them to 80ft/lb. I made sure to use the ARP lube on both sides of the washers and the bottom of the bolt head. I used the ARP sealer on the threads going into water jackets but the lube on the washers/bolt head.
They were on problem free & about 8K miles until a month ago, they disassembeled without a problem.
Just my experience. ww
1965 Galaxie 500XL 445ci Stroker (soon) C-6
1965 Galaxie 500XL 390ci P-Code, 4-Speed
1965 Galaxie 500XL 289ci Cruse-O-Matic
2001 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 5.4L
2006 John Deer X320 Garden Tractor
This message has been edited by pcode390 on Nov 28, 2008 4:59 PM
Rich I have 2 shelby blocks and Edelbrock heads and set of Sheldy heads. I run the all aluminium Shelby heads at 78 ft of torque WITH the washers and ARP lube on the threads. This is for a studded head motor build. The motor is only 10.2 compression. I have Hi-tac sprayed on all the surfaces. There have been no leaks in 2 years of racing this motor. Do have red stains from the hi-tac bleeding. An iron motor and heads would be the 100-110 spec. Any combo of Aluminium and iron, IMO would never get the same torque reading because of expandsion rates on the materials. I ran a 452 motor for 7 years and no failures of the head gaskets. Using good head gaskets may be more important than what the torque readings are. IMO. Any thing of Aluminium will start to crush over 85 lbs. I have not retorqued and head bolts after assembly. This is another choice thing that has pros and cons. Rick L. Ps I am not a PRO builder or racer like Barry, Jay, Blair, or a couple of others here. This is what has worked for me.