now that Net 54 is back to "normal". Before and after. A donor block was used for a patch piece and it was furnace brazed in place. He used a tube for the S/O gallery and it looks like it will work fine. Also had him weld a small crack starting in the #4 main saddle. Wasn't there before the bang, but don't know if it's a cause and effect deal.

Machine work needs to be re-done but this is a cheaper fix than a new block.

He did a nice job. Should be good as new. happy T-day Dale. Mike

My "pet engine builder" told me that hard use motors like Offshore Race Powerboats will often twist/distort blocks with just the use itself. I wonder how much things distort on a FE when simply holed.

.

Mickey Thompson's 63 1/2 #997 S/S Hi-Rise 427 Lgt/Wgt Galaxie,
1957 C-600 Cab-over carhauler w/390-4V, 2-speed rear-end
FGCofA member #4908
MCGC member #75

"There will ALWAYS be an FE in my LiFE"

Nothing like a good, creative repair. Why did you choose furnace brazing instead of welding? Was it to minimize warpage issues, or just that it was available, or ??

Jay Brown
1968 Shelby GT 500 Convertible, 492" 667 HP FE
1969 R code Mach 1, 490" supercharged FE, 9.35 @ 151.20, 2007 Drag Week Runner Up, Power Adder Big Block
2005 Ford GT, 2006 Drag Week Winner, 12.0 Daily Driver
1969 Ford Galaxie XL, 460 (Ho Hum....)
1964 Ford Galaxie 500, 510" SOHC

Was it a full length or a spot fix? If a full length did you drill and tap at the cross feeds? what was used as a sealer?

I'm not interested in having it repaired myself but I am trying to assess it's value (if any) to sell. If I may ask, how much did your repairs cost? I know my block will be more because it needs to be sleeved. Thanks. ww









1965 Galaxie 500XL 445ci Stroker (soon) C-6
1965 Galaxie 500XL 390ci P-Code, 4-Speed
1965 Galaxie 500XL 289ci Cruse-O-Matic
2001 Ford F-150 SuperCrew 5.4L
2006 John Deer X320 Garden Tractor

and forgot to ask why the furnace braze over weld, but all this guy does is cast repair and has been welding for over 40 years, so I assume he has his reasons. When he first looked at the damage, he just said "no problem" to fix.

The oil galley tube is just a brass patch piece brazed in place. The hole is slightly smaller than the original gallery due to the I.S. diameter, but shouldn't pose a problem. The welder said it didn't leak. I don't think I'd "girdle" the thing although that may be a good idea. The pan and center link are already real close, and I'd have to do without a windage try for sure if I went that route.

As far as tweaking the block, I don't think it went anywhere because of the bang, (happened real quick)but suspect it's out a bunch now due to the heat and brazing. The # 4 main cap is a bit tight, and the welder said that happens when doing the main saddle.

I'll know more once the machine shop has a look at it.

When I say we, I muddle through it, my dad is artistic with it.

My 427 has a couple of repaired windows as well, and its been that way through 2 builds now with no change in main alignment.

In a non load bearing piece like yours, in a wall that can take some heat, the brazing is pretty quick and easy to make look nice. Brazing is nearly as easy as sweating pipes together, you just need the ability to get the local area hot enough to attract the brass

The also heat spreads out, a good thing, even if you dont use a furnace, so you dont have the localized expansion and cooling of stick welding.

Myself, I dont even think that repair needed a furnace, I think that with a rosebud he probably could get it hot enough to braze, different topic though.

Welding cast iron is pretty easy too, but has some quirks, you really need a DC machine, not everyone has one, and a nickel rod which can be a bitch to machine.

However, the biggest issue is controlling a fast change in heat, especially cooling, When you weld cast iron, its about equal to the logic of the tetonic plates during cooling. It builds tremendous pressure inside and if allowed to cool too rapidly it will crack, but once you get past that, its a great repair.

Methods to allow stress to relieve are as easy as a slow cool with a torch and literally tapping the welded piece with a ball-peen for small pieces, to putting it in a furnace and controlling the cool time for large pieces.

BTW, it looks like he did a nice job, and he understood what machining was needed as it looks like he left some material in the mains to cut when you align hone.


---------------------------------
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, TKO-600 5 speed, 3.70 9 inch
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 397 cid FE, headers, Street Dominator, 280H, 5 lug Dana 60, 4 speed

I did an article for Mustang and Fords Magazine regarding the welding repair of a block damaged much as yours shows. One side was busted out and the other was 'dinged' and cracked. I'm in process of trying to re-acquire copies of that engine build and will try to post some of it if I'm successful.
KS

I have a CJ block that needs the valley repaired as it's thin and cracked(leaks water). It will likely need a larger patch put over the thin area. It's not a high stress area, so brazing should suffice? It's a really nice block, all machine work finished, but somehow pressure checking it was forgotten in the mix. It's been sitting in the corner now for about 10 yrs.


LarryK

1964 Galaxie 2dr 390/6-71/4spd
1964 Country Sedan Wagon 428/5spd
1969 F100 428/4spd
1967 F100 352/now a 4 spd!
1959 B Model Mack

..they used to do it in the back yard under a big oak tree ( we were hicks)
They built up a deck once that was missing a chunk of iron and the engine ran great even after it was sold (small block ford)


Richard.