recently purchased a 1965 3/4 ton F-250 with 17,000 original miles out of a barn in montana. it has a 352 2bbl with manual trans. almost perfect body with no rust. only paid 600. can someone educate me on what I have? -hp/torque, reliability, modifications to make into a daily driver. The truck has been started from time to time but sat most of its life. It is completely stock. I need to prep it to make the journey from Montana to Colorado Springs where I live. My other car is a 2003 cobra so I'm in unfamiliar territory now. Where would you guys begin? I know that fuel is different than in the mid 1960's so do I need to harden the valve seats or will a lead additive surfice? any help is greatly appreciated
Then you do not have to worry about brake system integrity,fuel system integrity,and what amount of engine sludge is being relocated with modern detergent oil.JMHO,sounds like a great find.
check out the brakes real well for leaking wheel cyl. and master. If all looks good flush intire system with fresh dot three fluid before test drive. Replace all the hoses and belts, Plugs, plug wires, cap, points&condenser, this step might not be necessary but you will probably do it when you get home anyway and will make it that much more roadworthy. Remove fuel tank and visually inspect interior by removing sender and shining a light in the fill hole. If it's fouled flush fuel tank(better yet take to a radiator shop and have chemically cleaned), blow out fuel lines with compressed air. Replace fuelpump and filter, I would'nt trust a 45 yr. old pump diaphram. Flush cooling system including block. Drian oil and flush with a little diesel. Might not be a bad idea to pull The dist. and prelube the engine with a half inch drill if it has'nt been run for along time. Carb may need cleaning. Tires should be replaced. Check fluid levels in drive line. Those old seals in th trans and diff. are most likley going to leak. This can be done, but you may be begining to see the wisdom of getting a buddy with a truck and trailer.LOL. Great score by th way. The 352 is a geat little engine I have one in my 66F-250 and it's a strong runner. I'am upgrading to nicely built 397, but with a cam, good intake and small 4bl, and a set of headers the 352 will run very well. for daily driver I would upgrade to front discs and power steering from a mid 70's truck. Most of those parts are cheap thru the local parts stores. I paid $17.63 for rebuilt calipers(the rebuild kit was $21). You might want to go to a little more highway friendly rear gear, mine has 4:10's but I'am installing a TKO 600 trans. Post some pics for us when you get a chance. Good luck, Mike
This message has been edited by gaffney1951 on Nov 17, 2008 9:28 AM
205 hp 327 lbs ft of torque. Indestructible if you do a few things before you drive it.
November 17 2008, 6:53 PM
I would trailer it home.
If you were to drive it home you are looking for an adventure of possibly considerable expense. You will need to go through the brake hydraulic system, and replace the brake hardware at the least if not shoes too. Put some marvel mystery oil in the plug holes and turn it over by hand a few times, clean the old plugs and put them back in. Change the fluids, engine oil, transmission and rear end, grease everything, and replace the u-joints. Replace the tires. If it has split rims get them off before they kill someone. The coolant needs to be drained, the thermostat replaced and the radiator boiled and soldered, the core plugs will likely need replaced, and the water pump will likely start leaking half way home. Belts and hoses, bypass or replace the heater core. The gas tank needs to be pulled out and at the least dumped. It will be full of dirt. Put fresh fuel in and put a filter to the pump and one between the pump and the carb. Kit the carb. Take a couple of spare filters, because you will likely change them on the way home. Replace the vacuum hoses. You might not have a PCV it might be a road draft tube, just make sure it isn't obstructed and the filler cap can breathe. The fuel pump may be OK but get a spare and a gasket. Clean and gap the points,and carry a spare set of points and a condenser. Clean the battery terminals and grounds, replace the battery if it has sat much. Pull the voltage regulator cover and clean the points and pivots. a stuck regulator will fry a battery. Pull the alternator and have it load tested. Figure on changing the engine oil and filter about 100 miles down the road,along with replacing the plugs. The old age and MMO fouling will do them in. If there is any mouse nest in it you will likely catch it. Oh and expect it to drink oil, it will leak and likely burn quite a bit because the umbrella valve guide seals are crumbs by now.
A vehicle that has sat for a long time needs alot of prep to avoid getting a bad taste in your mouth on your first trip. U-Haul many times has a one way trailer deal where you can drive there, rent a trailer, get it home and leave the trailer at a local outlet. It beats a long ride on a roll back by a mile.