any suggestions will be appriciated!!! buying a boneyard motor and its stuck. Dont know any perticulars about how long its been siezed,other than it siezed from sitting, maybe10 yrs.Is there any MIRACLE fluid that will assist in breaking it loose, without causing any more damage? (that can be poured down the intake and left to sit for a week or two).motor will be rebuilt this spring,shooting for damage control,and ease of disassembly.thanks,Howard.

well me and a friend at school had to do that to a 350 rocket motor , all i can say is get good penatrant , or some oil . shoot the cylinders full let it soak a bit and we rocked the crank back and forth , we even jumped on the bar to turn the crank . and yea it finally gave in . i am a lil new to this but man take ur time so u dont break it lol . but it took us a few days to do it .

and we did the same thing on a flat head ford and its worked twice . but u will definitly need the cylinders machined . and hope theres no pitting in there to . but grab a case of some good pent oil and go to town , hope u have a good breaker bar . hope this helps . check the cylinders first to see if theres any antifreeze in them cuz if there is could just be leading to more trouble but i am sure you already no that stuff . good luck hopeto see pics of it sometime
******yes i did forget the most important part the block of wood and hammer ****** to hit the top of the pistons

My brother in law found a 1969 428 SCJ Cougar Eliminator stored behind a house with a tarp over it many years back. Turns out it had been parked back in the 1970's after a head gasket failure. 68K miles on the odo. Intake and one head were off. The owner was the brother of the property owner. He was sitting in CA on welfare and was glad to be able to sell the car.

Surprisingly, it never had water in the cylinders. With a ton of patience, penetrating oil and a big breaker bar, we finally got it to turn over. Cleaned up the cylinders by hand, put it all back together and it ran like a champ. I drove it from Dallas to Tulsa where it ran 13.50's all day on BF Goodrich radials at the Mid America Shelby meet. One of the big Cougar collectors bought it several months later.

Tim

1970 Boss 302
1972 F250 Crew Cab (powered by 66 Super Marauder 428)

In my experience with stuck industrial motors no two were stuck the same. Pull the heads and inspect the cylinders to see how bad the rust is. Coat the cylinders with oil and let them set. I used a 5lb hammer and a block of wood to the top of the pistons to break them loose. I would take a cylinder hone to the rust areas to clean them up first. Most of the time the rings were rusted to the cylinder and once they broke loose the motor would turn over.
On extremely stuck motors I had to break the pistons apart to get it freed.
Anyway you go you are going to need to pull the heads and pan as you will find that rust will be on the crank journals and the rods. I find it highly unlikely you will be able to just free it and make it run. Good luck...

hey i forgot that part in my message and thanx cuz thatsthe most important part that i left out lol i edited mine but thanx for the reminder. but i was not trying to still ur thunder on here if u know what i mean

buy another motor unless it is somethinig special or you already own it, chances are it's crap. If you really have to have it, pull the heads and hope that it is only one slug thats bad. If so turn it on its side so that cylinder will hold fluid and pour some brake fluid in it and walk away for a week or better. Then take your air chisle and put a socket on the piston and let er rip. After you finnaly get it apart take it to the machine shop to find out the block is cracked. good luck.

WELLLLLLL,planning to rebuild it,o/size high compression pistons, ect.thanks.SOMEONE said "KEROSENE" works good,any comments??

I have had some luck with stuck engines that were not outdoors for more than a couple months. I've had no luck on stuck engines that have been seasoned outdoors for years without BOTH a hood and an air cleaner over them.

Once the water fills the combustion chamber, the corrosion gradually keeps building, deeper and stronger.

Some folk may have methods, but I've tried the fancy industrial rust disolvers (Kroil) and long-term soaking with no improvement. I've also tried machining the pistons away, as best as possible with a drill and grinders, again zero luck and a lot of wasted time and tools.

If the engine has gone through a cold season the rust will fill the cracks generated by the shrunken piston, and when the season warms the expanding piston will simply impact the new layers of rust into the cylinder walls.

Shoe.

WONDERFUL

More often then not it's a real pain in the axx that offers a good chance of a bad block. I would not pay any more than the value of what you can see in parts. I have had a couple that had stuck valves but they will rock back and forth.

either its broken or there is rust in the cylinders. If its broken its shot, if there is rust in the cylinders chances are its shot. With a motor thats been sitting that long with no history its a crap shoot. If its rusty and you do manage to free it up chances are it will smoke due to rust particle filled stuck piston rings. If you must buy this engine do so knowing you have to pull it apart and rebuild it then you won't be disappointed.

Dave Walters
427 Galaxie Registry
Website
http://home.ptd.net/~pwalters

I wont get into a contest on whats the favorite of everyone, but if you will check out Gibb's penetrating oil on Google, it is hands down the best available. I have used it on guns which had salt spray from Katrina and by wetting and placing plastic wrap on them, rewetting a day or two later, the rust completely dissolved and left gray metal. None better in my opinion.

Had a 64.5 Mustang, small block car. Stuck hard but always intact with air cleaner & hood. Filled the thing up with CRC-556 (kinda like WD40) through the carb abd through the plug holes. Used most of a gallon. Poured the rest in over a few days. Every day we would take a 15/16 soctet on a breaker bar with a big hunk of pipe and try to rock the engine back & forth. A few days into the excersize the thing moved about an 1/8 of a turn. Each day from then on it moved further - maybe after a week or so it was turning all the way 'round. new plugs and fresh gas - fired it up. Always smoked a bit - but the guy we sold it to drove it away as a project.

Barry Rabotnick
Survivalmotorsports.com

In my '32 Ford 1-1/2 ton dump truck, cleaned up the rust and crud with some 80 grit & Marvel, used Marvel, PB Blaster, and brake fluid to soak it, put my 1" drive and six feet of pipe on the rear lugs and gently rocked it back and forth- a week and a half of this, and the fan finally moved. A little more gentle working spun her all the way over, put the heads back on and fired it up- thanks to Ford for the 4-ring pistons, the top of that cylinder looks like Death Valley, but no smoke or fouled plugs, runs good enough to sport around at shows and such

a link from the HAMB, with 40+ responses.

http://tinyurl.com/65rtcs



Mark

that would'nt loosen up, but I live in a very dry climate. I mix kerosene and ATF and fill the the cylinders let it sit for a week or so and the start working it as stated above. If your in the midwest or similar climate and it was left open(carb uncovered) Probably not worth the work unless you get it for close to free. If it was underhood I'd give it a shot. When life gives you lemons make .040 over stroker motors. Maybe.LOL. Mike

From what you're saying, Howard, it sure sounds like rust/corrosion is the problem. Good advice from the Forum members about freeing a rusted-up engine. But, as an aside....
My ex bro-in-law is a mechanical Quaalude. Isn't anything mechanical he can't destroy. He had this POS Austin that needed a clutch. He put the car in the garage and changed out the clutch. Took him all winter. Come Spring, he found that the engine would not turn over and assumed it was "frozen". He asked my advice and I told him it was unlikely that an engine could freeze up in less than 6 months, especially if the head and all was intact. He ignored my advice and tried using a breaker bar and penetrating oil to free things up. He ended up towing the car down the street and popping the clutch to try and free things up. After a few hours of this, he finally got me to take a look at the thing for him. After some head-scratching, I figured he had done some sort of mis-installation during the clutch replacement. Here the dummy had used new longer bolts when installing the pressure plate and they had bottomed out against the block, locking everything up tight.
While remote, maybe in your engine's past life, somebody did something stupid. Maybe my ex bro-in-law owned it.

Bacj when I was in the Navy in Hawaii One of the crew (dufus) left his brand new 305 Dream sit on the pier for six months came back and it was frozen solid.Dealer quoted him an outrageous sum, I offered him 50 for it. Soaked the cylinders in penetrating oil for a couple of days used the kick starer to break it loose. It fired right up after I did a quick emery cloth hone. Sold it for $300. Not bad for a gasket & some oil.

1968 Ranchero 390. 060 over,10.5:1, Comp 292H Cam, Performer RPM intake, Hooker headers, 4spd. 3.89 dif. ProForm 750 DP, Mallory Unilite distributor, Holley Annihilator cd ignition system, centerforce df clutch.

Use some good penetrating oil like Aero Kroil or Sea Foam Deep Creep ect. Use a stick fly wheel and put a bell housing bolt in the block. Use a jack handle or something like it between the ring gear teeth and the bolt. Go on each side of the bolt to change directions. I have had very good luck this way. Better then a breaker bar and a four foot pipe on the front of the crank.