Trying to decide what to do with the '66 Country Squire, I'd like to keep the 428 and trans, the rest is pretty straight and complete, but I've got too many projects I like better. Will the discs and (assuming) big rear drums fit on a '62? The 406 car has the big drums and stops pretty good, plus the originality thing, but the ragtop has the leetle manual drums- doesn't stop worth doo-doo. Are these the same big beasts like the '66 Bird, or different? Haven't gotten around to pulling a wheel off yet to compare them. Also have to consider the single master cylinder thing. Once I started pulling brakes and such off, it would pretty much seal the Squire's fate- might put a classified up to see if anyone wants it- any Squire fans out there?

darn it my log in did not work when i wrote this book for the first time--here goes again--66 discs will bolt right up to 62--must use 66 spindles and maybe tierod ends--also get the proportioning valve on the frame or a new adjustable valve--large disc master cylinder as on 66 or dual master needed as well---only downside is if you want to stainless steel sleeve the calipers -it runs about 600.00 for the pair--for that money master-power brakes will sell new calipers/discs/etc that will bolt onto 62 spindles--my next brake swap will be these type (66 disc) onto my 61--i think i am going to forego the stainless sleeve route and just bead blast/powdercoat/rebuild the calipers--rebuild stuff readily available--my 57,63,66 galaxies all have this disc set up and it is a definite improvement

Thanks, the system on the Squire is working great, no leaks, power booster, everything, and doesn't seem to be as touchy to pedal pressure as the 'Bird ones for some reason. Will the power booster fit as well? A little tight to the valve covers? I have the old "Thunderbird" covers, as well as a couple sets of round top 427 chromies, so I can run the short ones if I have to. Have you found a dual cylinder in the right size that will work with the booster? I'm thinking the wagon rear drum backing plates should bolt right up to the big-bearing '62 housing? Poor old Squire might get pieced out after all

you know the power booster may be a problem--mine are all manual and they stop really well--I know my 66 originally had added on power drums--very touchy I think the pedal pivot point for the brake rod was different with power brakes--less of a lever arm with power and more with manual--the power brakes did well you just had to remember it only needed a touch--if you stomped on the brake you would go thru the windshield---i think some after market boosters are smaller in diameter to more easily fit a 62 never really measured a 62/63 booster diameter--the backing plates and drums do need to go together and should also bolt right up--i guess the wagon rears are probably bigger than the 62 original--that 66 probably has a 9 3/8 rear but are the axle housing the same size where the backing plates bolt up? they probably are but i would measure that

If I read it right, you're running '66 discs without the booster, and the '66 mc works OK? That would work, but would still love to go to a dual mc while I'm at it- anybody know a part # that will work?

I have dual cylinders on all my cars--If you get a power dual cylinder master cylinder the bore will be to0 large---i made that mistake once on my mustang and had to use 2 feet on the brake pedal and still puckered during a stop!!!-I used to get a f250/350 power master and it had a 1 inch bore i guess since they weighed so much--worked great---went to get another 10 years later and the local auto parts pulled the "same" number/application but it was not 1 ""---did not work-several stores later when masters all had same too large bore I just broke down and called Master Power brakes and got a 1 inch bore dual cylinder master cylindwer--around 100 bucks!! but works great and they assured me you could add a booster and still not be too touchy. It really does not take too much foot with the manual brakes and a power booster is expensive and just one more thing to break. Can it stop like a 2008 saturn (or cheap car of your choice)--no it cant but works well and just drive accordingly--another post was right about wheels---just use the wagon wheels they are 15 inch and somewhat desireable as they are KH WHEELS--14 INCH WONT FIT THESE BRAKES-most any 15 mag will fit and some 14 mags are built to fit the calipers as well.

and most 15 inch (none I've found) after market wheels will not clear the calipers.

I want to try a 16" late model Mustang wheel - maybe it will clear them.

Bob

1966 7 Litre Convertible
1959 F-100 (under construction)
2005 GT40 (in my Dreams)

I found out the hard way while trying to get an extra set of steel wheels for my '66 Tbird with disc brakes.

Long story short, a good place to buy the correct 15" steel wheels for other Fords using these disc brake setups are Tbird parts houses that have used stock 15" Tbird steel wheels.

So these are the same as the 'Bird brakes? Went down that road a while back, put the 17x8 Mustang Bullitt wheels on my 428 'Bird- had to space them out an inch to clear the ball joint, but they cleared the caliper OK- but the 16" wheels off my '88 LSC would NOT clear the caliper- as most wheels won't. If these brakes are the same as the 'Bird, that would curb my enthusiasm a bit, to say the least.

they are same as the t bird---i have 15 americans on my 66 they fit fine--my 57 has the original 66 wheels where the calipers came from and my 63 has a 67 disc set up using the 67 wheels--it does take 15 inch wheels but they look better on a 60-64 galaxie anyway---see if your mags will fit over them they may if they are 15inch

I searched through many of pages on T-Bird and Galaxie forums, posted questions and only got a few suggestions. one was to get rid of the 4 piston 12" brakes for later single piston floater and 10" or 11" disc T-bird stuff so there would be a choice of wheels, blasphamy!

I wanted to keep these awesome brakes and they are incredible after being rebuilt. RockAuto had Raybestos reman calipers for $67 plus core. They had all new pistons, seals, and bleeders replaced. Can't buy the parts seperate for that amount.

I bought a few wheels to try and this is what I came up with after seeing the Bird Nest selling this wheel for $150 (5 1/2") It is a Wheel Vintiques 38-571204 but is 7" wide and has a 4" back space. It has dual pattern bolt holes so one is the required 5 on 4 1/2". If I were to use the 7 Litre wheel covers I would have to relocate the valve stem. This wheel is available in chrome too.

Now to make it work required a 1/4" spacer and some minor grinding on the caliper as circled on the picture. Also some minor grinding on the inside wheel welds where they were a little heavy. The spacer brings the back space right back to original 3 3/4" and the studs come just to the end of the stock lug nut so all is good here. The best part is the wheel was only $60 from Summit! I may even paint them body color when I paint the car.

Here are some pics-

above are temporary, this link will last a little longer-
http://picasaweb.google.com/galaxieman1/Wheel7?authkey=oohwxAX_Euw#

I'd like to use them if possible, as they are hell for strong brakes, just a bit of a pain. Ideally, if I could run them manually, and find a dual MC that would work, would be a nice setup. I have a whole other set of Americans I can work with (the ones on the ragtop are old Internationals, if anybody remembers them). I have 4 8-1/2 x 15's and a pair of 7x15's, just need to pull the Squire down to the shop and start checking. The 'Bird ball joint is a major pain, wheels that will clear the caliper with much inset won't clear the joint- the Bullitt wheels are really inset, had to space the fronts out an inch to get them to fit the 'Bird- but it was worth it. I could probably chuck up the spacers and take 1/4" off the back, and it would fit even better. Gotta get off my butt and take some pictures of the 'Bird, those Bullitts look saweet on there. If the brakes will work, might be a bunch of '66 Gal-Country Squire stuff coming up for sale