I found my loud exhaust leak last night, and it was a strange one. The #2 tube is situated about 1/4" above the r/h side if the front crossmember. Under the tube is a self-threading 3/8" bolt that holds the starter wire loom in place. It seems that the bolt started turning itself back out of the hole on my trip south last week.
The bolt eventually came in contact with the header tube and vibration caused it to penetrate the tube. The head of the bolt was just inside the tube, and engine vibration/movement caused it to push/tear a hole, appox 1" diameter, in the bottom of the tube! After I finally located the source of the problem I was really shocked to see the damage. Weird problems just never cease to amaze me, especially on performance cars.
The headers are Hooker Super Comps. Also surprising is the thinness of the tube. When they call them thin-wall headers, they don't mince words.
I hope this very expensive header can be repaired. What is the metal used? How should it be repaired, especially considering the thinness of the tube? A small piece of metal will need to be pieced-in, probably about the 1" diameter of the hole. I have a very large steel fabricating shop next door to my garage, but I would like to get some info from experienced members of the Forum beforehand.
A new set of headers, including coating would probably cost $700-$800 (or more), so I hope this hole can be repaired. Headers are low mileage, coated, very clean, and in excellent condition. Any advice will be appreciated.
The section of tube can be replaced. If your header is coated you would have to get that redone. We build headers here and if you live near a fab shop they could certainly repair it also. Where do you live, I may be able to help .
Cumberland, Maryland, it's in the westernmost part of the state, in the mountains. I doubt there's anyone within at least three hours drive. That's why I thought of the steel fabicator next door, but it needs to be done professionaly. Any help/recommendation apreciated.
This message has been edited by trevorldean on Oct 31, 2008 10:35 AM
sells header tubing parts. Given the right pieces, anyone can then duplicate the original tube layout. I have two friends that build headers, and as long as you supply the whole header, they can cut the piece out and replace it so that it hardly looks touched. TIG welding it then polishing it can make a seamless repair. Then get it recoated.
Maybe have it looked at, and have that one tube moved over slightly to give it more clearance room.
LarryK
1964 Galaxie 2dr 390/6-71/4spd
1964 Country Sedan Wagon 428/5spd
1969 F100 428/4spd
1967 F100 352/now a 4 spd!
1959 B Model Mack
Upon closer examination last evening I found that the bolt seemed to have initially cracked the tube, then pushed the one inch diameter piece inside the tube; like a flap. So I need only pull the piece back to the surface then TIG it around the three edges and final finish the surface.
I had to repair a small hole that was caused by several chunks of weld the Mexican manufacturers of Hooker headers deposited inside the #1 tube at the flange. I then found a header paint (plasticote?) that matched my Airborne coating. This was several years ago and the small painted area never burned off, and it was right next to the port! Great paint. I think all will be ok now. Thanks.
