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The front engine water cooled cars not only saved Porsche from extinction by increasing sales, they also out performed the rear engine models in several areas, due to superior weight bias and overall handling. The 924 and 944 series started out as mid-level sports car, and was developed into high powered turbocharged world beater. The 4-cylinder 944 and 968 engine, is basically 1/2 of a 928 V8 engine on a special 4-cylinder block. The 928 evolved into one of the finest high performance luxury GT cars ever produced for the general public. All Porsches are great cars, but early wasserpumpers (1977-1995) don't have that tendency to want to crash backwards when you lift off the throttle while going into a decreasing radius turn (no offense to our rear engine bretheren).

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1983 928 Disc Brake Removal and Pad Replacement (photos)

September 17 2005 at 3:57 PM
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(Premier Login FEfinaticP)
Forum Owner

Here’s what it looks like with the wheel off. Everything looks normal, but that disc is obviously getting some wear. I have been checking it with a laser-point infra-red pyrometer, and it’s been running quite a bit hotter than the other side of the car.

At speed, after about ten miles I start picking up vibration, sooner on a hot day than a cold day. For a while I thought the tire itself was getting a bulge in it (and I have not ruled that out, but the disc has a tell-tale hot signature to it so I think I have a brake issue).

Here’s what I discovered when I pulled everything out.
<br /> That's NOT RUST on the disc by the way, it's an illusion that showed up on the photo, strange, but actually the disc is uniformly polished.
I popped the plastic covers off the back of the sliding bolts, and removed the sliding bolts. Off came the caliper.


I lifted out the pad, so far everything looks pretty normal.

<br /> (that's not rust on the disc, it's an illusion that showed up on the photograph, I think it's a reflection of the ground, due to the flash going off, pretty strange, but I assure you that disc was polished enough to shave with.)
Upon examination of the pad, I don’t see anything out of the norm.


I decided to pull the rubber seal back on the piston, it looked good. I gave it a shot of Gibbs just to encircle the piston to be sure it was lubed and free of corrosion. The C-clamp pushed the piston in, everything felt good. This will allow reassembly to be easy.

See next post for a continuation (don’t want to load this single thread up too heavily with photos)


    
This message has been edited by FEfinaticP on Sep 19, 2005 10:08 AM
This message has been edited by FEfinaticP on Sep 18, 2005 1:04 PM
This message has been edited by FEfinaticP on Sep 17, 2005 4:45 PM


 
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