I have a 1999 2.3 millenia S with 125,000 kms..So far the only repair I have made was the catilytic converter ...everything else still works....

My Question is Does anyone have a millenia with 150,000
or more ....more than 200,000 kms....i am just curious
to know.....

I have 170K Miles it smokes like hell in thr mornings

Mine has 197,000 KM and it is "the car from hell". Can't sell it and no one wants it anyway.

I have recently purchased a Mellinia and it has 128,000 and the only thing wrong is the check engine light came on about a week after having it. I ran a check on it and it seems to be the Knock Sensor (Has anyone ever heard of this)? Just this week I started to notice some hesitation in the engine but this could be due to me washing the engine with a spray hose. I will change one spark plug that look to be bad then get back to let you know if that solve the hesitation problem.

98 Millenia here. I have the same Knock sensor shit come up on a diagnostic test i did on the car. I have pretty much been driving with ti. It will unfortunetly get worse if its your know sensor. Your car will start stalling and possibly jerking at every red light. Its a fucking missing. I have been reading that disconnecting the EGR sensor might work..But i dont know yet

For knock sensor trouble code (P0325) on Millenia KL enigne 2.5l, Mazda has an updated knock sensor. Check your sensor wiring connector (grey connector next to throttle body). If you have one wire connector, it is an old one. The new updated one has two wire connector.

95, 2.5 211,000miles Only problem is flashing hold light and tranny in failsafe mode. Cant figure it out.Probably will junk the car.

My 95 2.5 now has 219,000 miles,runs perfect. front valve cover gasket needs replacing.Timing belt at 110k. CV axles at 140k. Plug wires at 185k. Brake rotors 212k. I still get 25.5 miles per gallon. Mostly highway miles.

I bought it new and have had no problems. It has 90,000 miles and the check engine light came on and autozone said I have a egr valve flow problems. Even thought the check engine light is on it runs excellent and always has! Will try to fix it because inspection is due,but light has been on for about 5mth and car runs great.

I purchased mine new and now have 21,000 miles on it. It has already had the engine light on due to premium fuel, engine light on due to knock sensor (replaced with two wire connector under warranty), and now the engine has suddenly started to consume engine coolant (1 cup in last 300 miles). There are no leaks on the garage floor so I am concerned that the coolant is going out the exhaust pipe which suggests the engine has a defective head gasket. I was hoping to keep this car for ten or more years and put 150,000 miles on it but I no longer have confidence that it will do that. I have about two more months of warranty left so I am going to return the car to the dealer where I bought it so they can check it out. "Tree" - I have read almost all your posts and you impress me as being the most knowledgeable person in this forum regarding Mazda automobiles so if you would comment on this coolant consumption phenomenon I would appreciate it. Also, please let me know if there is anything else I should do now to avoid a costly repair to the cooling system later after the warranty expires.

see my remarks under "new owner of 2000 Millenia S"

i have a 99 millenia w/ 70 000miles and it runs great. my check engine light is always on. driver's heated seat doesnt work

For the seat heater problem, the heater element is rarely the problem. It was the thermosenor of the seat bottom element. The seat needs to be removed then taken apart to replace the heater element. The Upholstery shop would help you to finish the job.

This message is for Awtolycus.
Yes I heard of the premium fuel problem in Millenia. It can cause misfire code stored in computer memory if you use premium fuel and having many short distance driving or just backing out of the driveway. It is only for the 2.5l engine so your millenia is not an S model. In the winter, I would use the regular fuel per Mazda recommendation but in the summer or on a long high speed driving trip, I would still use premium fuel.
For the loss of coolant concern, I would have Mazda check for leak but ask them to look closely to the cross pipes under intake manifold, lower hose outlet at thermostate housing because you had knock sensor replacment. To replace knock sensor, they had to remove those components. The technician may not put it back correctly or forgot to install new seals. If it leaks at the cross pipes, you won't see it on the floor. The heat of the engine will evaporate it before you can see them.

From my personal experiance.The millenia 2.5 liter V6 engine isnt soo picky about fuel.I have seen and heard alot of them run better on mid grade.
On the S miller cycle motor it is a must.

I have a '00 with 128,000 and it needs a front valve cover gasket, replaced the timing belt at 115,000 and just got done with the CV axles about 2 hours ago... Ordering rotors as we speak and my driver side radius arm was shot... another 200 dollar part =\

I have a 98 2.5L, that just hit 90K and the only problem I have come across is the knock sensor as well. I priced one online for about $150 which is $200 cheaper than what Mazda wanted to charge me and that is just for the part (no labor included). I plan on getting that changed and a full tune-up done all at the same time.

i have 99 type s with almost 99000 mils on it the check engine recently came up and the gase milage increased from 23 to 15 when i had auto zone scan it it gave me missfire codes on number 4 and 6 cylinder i don't use the car as much but when i come hom from my overseas unit and i turn it on the whole engine starts shaking and sometimes behind the red light same things happenes and when i step on the gas it goes away now i did put regular gas in to the car for almost 1 year does any body have any idea what the hell is wrong with it i apperciate the info in advance

i have a 2001 mazda mellenia with the check engine code commin up for knock sencor circuit one malfunction. And it recently just started to buck when i am going from a stop.. i thought it might be the transmission. please give me a little info on what you guys think.. and please tell me where the knock sensor is located .

95 2.5 253,000 miles! Check engine light...probably O2 sensor or cracked intake hose. Still runs very good.

I posted a while back with 219,000 miles.

My 95 now has 307,000 miles and still going strong!
Things i have replaced:

CV axles (twice each side)
Both front wheel bearings (spindles from junkyards)
Radiator
Alternator
A/C compressor
rear struts
Rotors (all 4)
Front valve cover gasket (rear still leaks but the job is too big)

I get a small amount of smoke on morning startups probably due
to worn valve seals (2.5 engine)

Timing belt NEVER been replaced!

Still getting 25 MPG

Some squeaking and groaning when turning while parking (probably Tie rod ball joints)

I'll drive it till it dies!

I just purchased a 1997 with a 2000 interior and wheels. Other than a motor mount that resonates only when in gear idleing my biggest problem is the power tilt wheel, it is all the way down and I am 6'4" kind of tough to get in and out. When I lift up on the switch I can hear the relay click and it draws about 12 amps until breaker blows, resets itself in about 15 seconds. How do I remove the plastic column covers, there are three holes in the bottom but I can not see the heads. Are they phillips, torx, slotted, etc. Thank You,
Richard.

I have a 2001 Millenia with 99,500 miles, and just experienced a problem where my steering wheel has stopped automatically tilting when entering and exiting the car. It is now locked in the up position. Other than this, I have had no major problems with Millie. Any suggestions on what the problem is and how much it will cost to repair her?

Did you ever get an answer to your question about the steering wheel? Mine is doing that too and I would love to be able to put my seat back down to low in order to drive it. Thanks

Hi, I just changed the brake pads on the 4 wheels and when I started the engine the warning lights for ABS & TCS on the dash turned on.
Is there any way to reset them?
What can I do, I just disconnect the battery for a few minutes, but the lights still on.
Thanks

I have posted a few times in the past about mileage. My 95 2.5
now has 368,000 miles. It seems to be almost dead. Running
just fine when all of a sudden loss of power and almost died
completely. The only way i can drive it is to start off super
slowly barely touching throttle or (else it will bog down to a stop)
and building rpms up till about 4000 where i can run it there.
any more throttle and it dies and it up hills REALLY DIES. I have
no idea what it is. i have fixed everything on this car at least once amd maybe
3 times, i lost count. Any help before i buy a new car? lol.

95 2.5L 370k miles. Huge bog/hesitation off idle.Have tried everything still cant figure it out.

I posted earlier with the problem of hesitation/bog on my 95 2.5 making it almost undrivable.Well at 370k miles and being parked for 6 months and buying another car, i finally found the problem.It was the damn distibutor! It was one of the first things i checked when i began working on it again. The spark appeared fine so i continued with other things, plugs,wires,cap n rotor,timing belt which it needed anyway(370k miles on the original). The belt had slipped a tooth due to so much oil from leaky VC gaskets.repaired the VC gaskets,checked fuel system,cleaned/checked injectors, 1 O2 sensor.Replaced MAF still no go.was about to drop the tank and check the fuel pickup when i decided what the heck i'm sick of taking this car apart i'm going to the junkyard and try a distibutor and 45 minutes and $125 later, BAM it was finally fixed! other things i did while working on it were gut all 3 cats (no emission inspection in my state), disable/remove the EGR system,use heavy duty wire loom on all the plug wires to prevent any shorting and heat damage common on these motors (i had been thru 4 sets in the cars lifetime),used longer vacum hoses directly to solenoids and components keeping them away from contact with the hot motor/intake.The car smokes some on startup due most likey to worn valve seals but it clears up after warm up.Its running silky smooth again and sounds great without all the cats.Also the throttle body and intake will stay clean with no EGR to deal with.

It now looks like 400k miles is easily within reach! who woulda thunk it!