I've had limited success with rust control.

Current practice is
1. Cut out rusty metal.
2. Weld in new metal.
3. Spray standard primer on the bare metal.
4. Apply standard body filler.
5. Shape the filler.
6. Spray three or four coats of standard primer.
7. Lightly rub the primer
8. Spray two coats of top coat.

I've been told that I should use a non-porous filler direct to the metalwork (maybe one of those with metal in it?) to get the shape - then finish the shape with normal filler.

I thought a primer direct to bare metal would make the metal waterproof but apparently primer is not water proof?

Perhaps what is happening is that the filler is cracking or I'm not using enough top coat and the water is getting into the porous filler and is rusting the metal, behind the filler.

Bottom line is what is the correct procedure?

Might want to go with Epoxy Primer on bare metal.

I'm sure there are several ways to rust-proof, or should I say rust-resist.
My method is to use an enchant on bare metal to remove any hint of rust, then spray with a self-etching primer, light sand, (and spray again if necessary) then apply fillers to pits, (if necessary) light prime over that (for consistancy) then apply the base and top coats. A bit of extra work but the results seem to last.

Is an X1/9 ever really rust-proof?

Bob Brown

to get the metal as clean as you can, wire brush rotary wheel or soda blast etc, then get a epoxy primer onto the surface as soon as you possibly can. Bare metal will start to corrode straight away - although you may not be able to see it. Also - resist the temptation to run your hands over the bare metal before you prime it - the greases and acids in your skin will contaminate the surface.
Lappy.

Where did you get those "stainless looking" compression tubes you used (in a picture you previously posted on XWeb)
that assists in lifting up the front bonnet? I'd like to get a set of those, so supplier and part number (with pressure
rating) would be most helpfull if you can share it. Thanks in advance!

Bob Brown

They are made here in Australia Bob, Company is called Australian gas springs and the product is lifteasy.
www.lifteasy.com
they are 316 stainless, 15mm barrel with 6mm shaft from memory about 40lbs.
I've actually put them on the engine lid and rear boot - they work great. Price about $35.00 and they have all the hardware and brackets you need. If you have no luck, let me know and I can pick some up and mail them over
Regards, Lappy

I definitely want a set, as I've not seen these here and would like to add them to my X.
They LOOK great and also seem to fit well in how you placed them.

I'll let you know if I have a problem. Thanks VERY MUCH for the info.

Best Regards, Bob Brown

Hi Lappy, do those gas struts get in the way at all when you want to store the targa roof in the front trunk?

I load the roof into the trunk, usually from the driver's side (RHD), and it kinda looks like that side strut might restrict this access to the trunk. Have you noticed this at all?

Certainly nice looking struts, and well priced too!

cheers, Ian - NZ

No, the struts, if you look at the photo, are inside the hinge line and as that is where the roof sits, it fits nicely. If you have no joy over the net - let me know and I'll grab them for you and shoot them over. They do export I think so should'nt be a problem.
Cheers, Lappy

...they tend to "burnish" the remaining rust.
Might look like area is clean,
but hit it with phosphoric acid,
and rust will be exposed.

Variety of small grinding stones, scraping, chiseling,
even a small engraver can be used to remove more rust.
Multiple passes with phosphoric acid will facilitate
mechanical removal, and neutralize the specks
that remain...which can then be sealed with epoxy primer.

I don't like the thought of leaving any scabby rust.
None of the neutralizers penetrate very deep.
Under hardshell of blackoxide, cancer remains.
Growth arrested while sealed from oxygen,
but breached seal means the demon returns.
It's a workaround to doing a through job.
Which is fine for those who don't mind.
I've learned I can't do less than best effort.

Or sandblasting really gets the rust gone,
but makes a mess...and tends to permeate every orifice.

moisture(the filler is Talc,like you'd put in your socks)and marine type,much more expensive.I think I've seen "waterproof" filler at one autoparts store,but the marine type is available at most marine supplies.

...readily available in various brands at autobody stores.
DuraGlass
Long'nStrong
KittyHair-short
KittyHair-long

Don't recomend the long kitty hair.
Way too gloppy to shape accurately before hardening.
Then too much work to shape after hardening.
Probably designed for larger areas than I'd fix this way.
Better to let in new metal if it's that bad.

Used properly (ie, SMALL areas,
adequate thickness, and epoxy sealed over and under),
they serve a purpose for areas where welding is counter productive.
Such as filling bumper surround holes from the backside,
when you don't want to repaint.
Or shaping engine cover, door, or Strada hatchbacks
with seam rust...after the rust is nuked/sealed,
and you have ragged shards of sheet metal remaining exposed.

Like fiberglass resin/matte, they dry with a snotty coat,
dry very hard, tough to sand, and don't feather edge well.
I like to work to final shape, then primer/glaze the surface
as needed.